Late during the 18th century, the Neapolitan chef and philosopher Vincenzo Corrado championed tomato sauce to be a “universal” accompaniment for pasta (and also for meats and greens), but not till 1839 does pasta al pomodoro as we know it (thick tomato sauce and al dente pasta, finished alongside one another inside a pan) enter the penned histo
SO THOROUGHLY ITALIAN is pasta that outrage greets anybody who attacks or undermines its centrality to Italian lifestyle. This was as correct in 1986, when protesters with the opening of a McDonald’s in Rome by the 18th-century Spanish Measures bore bowls of penne aloft — chanting, “We don’t want quick food. We want gradual foods” — as
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